Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Tips and Tricks #5: Varnishing Acrylic Paintings Without Tears!

Folks are often a bit confused about varnishing when it comes to acrylic paintings: Should I varnish? Use a solvent-based or polymer medium? Gloss or matte? And by the way, what's the point of varnishing in the first place? Let's address those questions in reverse order.

What’s the point of varnishing in the first place?

A varnish is the top-coat of material that is the very last thing to be applied to a painting. Traditionally, the varnish layer is composed of a transparent medium that is painted on with a soft, flat brush or sprayed from an aerosol can after the painting proper has been completed and is thoroughly dry.

A varnish serves as a protective layer between the surface of the painting and the outside world, so that dirt and scratches tend to collect on the varnish rather than the painting itself. That way, when the painting gets dirty you can just remove the layer of varnish—leaving the painting intact—and apply a new clean one in its place. Likewise, surface scratches will be removed with the varnish layer.

A varnish also creates a uniform layer on the painting. The different pigments used in acrylic paints may have very different levels of gloss inherent in their composition, resulting in a patchwork appearance on the painting. For example, an earth color like burnt umber may have a very matte appearance, while a synthetic pigment like quinacridone may be very glossy.

Should I use gloss or matte medium?

Gloss is the traditional and most often used type of varnish, and it the colors underneath to create greater richness and depth. However in contemporary art some paintings call for a more matte appearance or, something in between gloss and matte, a satin varnish. All the different levels of gloss are available in varnishes and they can even be mixed together to create different effects.

Should I use a solvent-based or polymer medium?

If you’re interested in varnishing your paintings to protect them, then you need to use a solvent-based varnish. Some great examples are Soluvar by Liquitex and Golden's Spray Varnish, all of which come in gloss, satin or matte finishes. These varnishes use petroleum distillates (mineral spirits) and resins as a base. These elements adhere to the surface of the acrylic painting like glue, but without creating a permanent bond. Solvent-based mediums can be removed using a solvent like Turpenoid, Gamsol or Grumtine with a cotton ball or other very soft applicator.

Since the acrylic painting itself does not react to these solvents, the painting will not be harmed when the varnish layer is removed. Of course the down side to using a solvent-based medium is introducing toxic fumes into your studio that must be ventilated at all times. For those of you who are allergic to mineral spirits, these varnishes will not be an option.

Because of the different chemical composition and the generally brittle nature of the solvent-based varnish, it will need to be replaced eventually, whether or not it gets dirty or scratched. If it is not replaced, the varnish layer may eventually begin to crack or flake off. It may take 50 years to happen, but it will happen. The acrylic painting is, by its own nature, tough and flexible, and able to withstand some pretty harsh treatment. Therefore you may decide that extra protection from a varnish is not necessary and not to deal with the hassle of replacing that solvent-based varnish every couple of decades!

In that case, a polymer medium—usually just called a gloss medium or a matte medium—will serve well to create a uniform surface over the whole painting. A polymer based varnish—such as Liquitex' Gloss Medium & Varnish—will bond with the acrylic painting underneath on a molecular level, effectively becoming part of the painting, and it can never be removed.

However, polymer mediums are not varnishes in the true sense of the word. They are actually just the same medium that the acrylic paints are made out of, made to be transparent without any pigment in them at all.

One very important technical detail must be noted here that may save you from crying later on: DO NOT over-brush a polymer medium when varnishing a painting! When you brush vigorously back and forth with a polymer medium it traps tiny air bubbles inside the plastic (this is usually called "foaming"). Because of the fast drying time of the polymer can become a permanent part of your painting! These bubbles will create a cloudy film, obscuring the colors underneath, and will look generally unpleasant. You won't notice this effect with acrylic paint because the color of the pigment obscures the cloudiness created by the bubbles, but since the varnish layer is transparent, they become all too apparent. So, when applying polymer medium as a varnish, brush it on in smooth, single strokes and don't scrub it!

The best way around this problem is to use polymer medium with a retarder solution, which will slow down the drying time sufficiently to allow the bubbles to escape if you do get a bit crazy with the brush. Both Liquitex and Golden make retarders and additionally, both companies make a product called Glazing Medium. Glazing Mediums are polymer mediums specifically with an appropriate amount of retarder already added. This is, in our humble opinion, the safest way to varnish with polymer medium.

To Varnish or Not to Varnish?

In conclusion, should you varnish? In most cases the answer would be yes. Varnishing has been a professional practice in painting for centuries and most clients will expect their paintings to be appropriately protected. Plus, the traditional glossy varnish is one of the things that potential buyers will expect to see on a painting, so if it's not there they may feel that the work is somewhat amateurish. That said, you may have a unique vision for your work that would be ruined by applying a varnish and you should never compromise on the things that make your paintings unique! Let your intuition be your guide . . . as it always should be!

Visit BINDERS website!

Sunday, April 25, 2010

This Week @ BINDERS - April 26-May 2

ART SALE | ART CLASSES & WORKSHOPS | ART HAPPENINGS

The Art School at BINDERS wants to make sure that you’ve heard about our special deal to help artists get the most out of their educational experience! If you sign up for 5 classes/workshops/demos at BINDERS, then you'll get a 6th class/workshop/demo at a 25% discount!

Here are some ideas to help you get started: Coming up in May we have the Adult Acrylics Workshop with Barry Sholder, plus the 6 week series on Drawing Concepts with Lisa Duncan. Also, check out the $5 demonstrations on May 15th on Atelier Interactive acrylic paints — they allow for much longer working times and greater versatility of techniques.

Come to BINDERS to expand your knowledge as well as your arsenal of art materials!

ART CLASSES & WORKSHOPS

Monday, April 26:
Guided Open Studio with Kay Powell
10:30am-2pm • Every Monday | Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $17/per session. Please pay the instructor. No registration necessary


Tuesday, April 27:
Painting-Design and Technique with Charles Y. Walls
1-4pm, Tuesdays, 6 Sessions, April 20-May 25
Open to all levels | Fee: $140 | Min. 8/ Max. 15

Bookmaking with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Tuesdays, 6 sessions, April 13-May 18
Beginner to Advanced | Fee: $140 | Min. 4/ Max. 15


Painting-Design and Technique with Charles Y. Walls
6-8:30pm, Tuesdays, 6 Sessions, April 20-May 25
see details above


Wednesday, April 28:
Impressionist Paintings From Photos with J.Z.Torre
1-4pm, Wednesdays, 6 Sessions, April 7-May 12
Advanced Beginner to Intermediate You should know the basics of the Color Wheel, Tonal Values, and simple Perspective to get the most from this course.
Fee: $160 | Min. 6/ Max. 12

Copperplate Calligraphy with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Wednesdays, 6 sessions, April 14-May 19
Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $140 | Min. 4/ Max. 15

Fearless Watercolor Landscapes with Susan Bradford
6-8:30pm, Wednesdays, 6 Sessions, April 7-May 12
Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $140 | Min.3/ Max. 10


Thursday, April 29:
Italic Calligraphy with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Thursdays, 6 sessions, April 15-May 20
Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $140 | Min. 4/ Max. 15

Friday, April 30:
No special art events today.

Saturday, May 1:
No special art events today.

Sunday, May 2:
No special art events today.

Please note: Classes on this schedule are in our Atlanta store unless otherwise indicated. For more information please email or call Eli Pelizza at 404.237.6331 ext. 203.


Check out the full list of our upcoming art classes and art workshops! Sign up for 5 classes, workshops or demos and receive 25% OFF of your next sign up.


ART HAPPENINGS | THE LIMELIGHT GALLERY

Art by the Usual Suspects: Kay Powell and her people

Showing until April 29



Visit BINDERS website!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

This Week @ BINDERS - April 12-18

ART SALE | ART CLASSES & WORKSHOPS | ART HAPPENINGS

The Spring weather is finally here and that means get ready for a BINDERS Spring Sale! We have all sorts of deals going on to help you get out into the fresh air and make some fresh works of art. Discounts range from 25% to 40% off MSRP on Guerilla Painter plein air supplies, Montana spray paints, watercolor paints and sets and more! Come on down to see what you can get for the best prices in town! We have many art classes and workshops beginning this week and be sure to check out the art by the Usual Suspects in The Limelight Gallery.

ART CLASSES & WORKSHOPS

Monday, April 12 :
Guided Open Studio with Kay Powell
10:30am-2pm • Every Monday | Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $17/per session. Please pay the instructor. No registration necessary


Silk Dye Painting Basics with Hellenne Vermillion
2-5pm, Mondays, 6 Sessions, April 12-May 17
Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $155 (includes some materials) | Min.3/ Max. 10
Sign up now!

Guided Open Studio with Kay Powell
6:30-8:30pm • see details above.


Tuesday, April 13:
Bookmaking with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Tuesdays, 6 sessions, April 13-May 18
Beginner to Advanced | Fee: $140 | Min. 4/ Max. 15
Sign up now!

Wednesday, April 14:
Impressionist Paintings From Photos with J.Z.Torre
1-4pm, Wednesdays, 6 Sessions, April 7-May 12
Advanced Beginner to Intermediate You should know the basics of the Color Wheel, Tonal Values, and simple Perspective to get the most from this course.
Fee: $160 | Min. 6/ Max. 12

Copperplate Calligraphy with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Wednesdays, 6 sessions, April 14-May 19
Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $140 | Min. 4/ Max. 15
Sign up now!

Fearless Watercolor Landscapes with Susan Bradford
6-8:30pm, Wednesdays, 6 Sessions, April 7-May 12
Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $140 | Min.3/ Max. 10
Class is full


Thursday, April 15:
Italic Calligraphy with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Thursdays, 6 sessions, April 15-May 20
Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $140 | Min. 4/ Max. 15
Sign up now!

Friday, April 16:
No special art events today.

Saturday, April 17:
No special art events today.

Sunday, April 18:
No special art events today.

Please note: Classes on this schedule are in our Atlanta store unless otherwise indicated. For more information please email or call Eli Pelizza at 404.237.6331 ext. 203.


Check out the full list of our upcoming art classes and art workshops! Sign up for 5 classes, workshops or demos and receive 25% OFF of your next sign up.


ART HAPPENINGS | THE LIMELIGHT GALLERY

Art by the Usual Suspects: Kay Powell and her people

Showing until April 29



Visit BINDERS website!

Friday, April 9, 2010

Tips and Tricks #4: Reduction Linocuts – Getting the most out of one piece of linoleum!

Around the beginning of the 20th century, relief prints pulled from carved pieces of linoleum, or linocuts, started to become popular and received attention from major artists and critics, which cemented the reputation of the medium as an expression of fine art. Linocuts share much in common with woodcuts, but whereas the later type of print requires that the artist work with and around the grain of the wood, the uniform nature of the linoleum allows it to be cut in whatever way the artist chooses, allowing for greater creative variations.

Woodcuts
In Europe, woodcuts (like most other print media) were traditionally monochromatic, being made with black ink on light colored paper. In Japan, however, the rich tradition of woodcut printing made bold use of colors and the Japanese were the original inventors of the multiple registration method that would be used to create prints in full color. The multiple registration technique involves cutting a series of blocks, all based on the same image, but with each block being cut so that it only prints the areas of the image that are a particular color. Then, the blocks are printed in series onto the same sheet of paper to create the multi-colored image.

Achieving a workable set of woodcuts that are precise enough to function as a multiple registration series is a painstaking process, because the original drawing of the image must be transferred to each block exactly and then the blocks must be printed on the paper each in exactly the same spot. The Japanese developed an entire culture and industry around the printmaking process, which still exists there today since it is widely accepted that the artistry of these master craftspeople is far superior to anything produced by machines.

Reduction Linocuts
The technique of the reduction linocut, which was popularized and possibly invented by Pablo Picasso, effectively eliminates half of the difficulty in producing a multicolored relief print, allowing the artist to more easily and effectively create multiple copies of complex compositions.

The reduction technique still requires that you have an accurate registration — meaning the block and the paper contact each other in exactly the same spot each time you print another color — but you have now eliminated the need to get exactly the same drawing onto multiple blocks. You have also reduced it to one block that can create an image with twenty colors, whereas in the traditional method you would need 20 separate blocks, each one drawn identically, to accomplish the same task.

Traditional or Reduction?
In traditional printing with multiple blocks, you can continue pulling prints until the block actually starts to fall apart and is no longer usable, so editions can be very large. With reduction printing you have to choose the quantity of the edition first and then once you begin there is no way to change your mind and make more because you will have destroyed part of the image on the block as soon as you start working on your second layer. By the time you are finished hardly anything will actually be left on the block to print with! Of course another way to think about it is that when you have a limited edition of prints, each print becomes a bit more valuable! It's good to remember that through adversity and necessity — like you need to make a print with many colors but you only have one piece of linoleum — new techniques are created and unique works of art become possible!

HOW TO: Reduction Linocuts
  1. Draw the lines of the image onto the linoleum block (remembering that the image will be reversed when you print it of course!) and plan out the colors for the image very carefully. It's important when doing reduction linocuts to know where each color will go and what order they should be printed in, because if you make a mistake, there's no going back!
  2. Carve the block to remove the areas where the natural color of the paper will show through, although in some cases that will not occur at all and no carving will be necessary.
  3. Ink the block with the lightest color in the image - it is VERY important to work from light to dark in this process - and pull prints with that color for the entire edition. For example: if you are planning to do 40 prints you must ink the block and print it at this stage 40 times.
  4. Begin carving away at the linoleum block, removing the areas where the color that you just printed will be visible.
  5. Ink the block with the next lightest color and pull prints with that second color for the entire edition. Since block printing ink is quite opaque, the second, darker color will completely cover the first color, except for the areas you just carved out. You will now have an edition of prints that has two colors, plus possibly the color of the paper as well.
  6. Continue repeating the process, carving away the parts of the image that you want to remain visible and printing the rest with the next darker color. Eventually you will get to the darkest part of the image (black or some other very dark hue) and very little printable area will remain on the block.
  7. Print the last layer through the entire edition and you are finished!
  8. Congratulations! You now have a full edition of original prints in full color and you've only used a single linoleum block!
Visit BINDERS website!

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Artists and Instructors at BINDERS, #2: A Conversation with J.Z.Torre

BINDERS: The subject of your upcoming workshop at BINDERS, "Impressionist Paintings from Photos," is unusual. Tell us a bit about the theory behind this workshop and the relationship between photography and Impressionism.

J.Z.Torre: It may come as a surprise to some that artists have been painting from photographs since the invention of photography in the 1830s in France. Monet, Degas, Gauguin, Lautrec, Cezanne, Van Gogh, and many other Impressionists and Post-Impressionists used photos as templates to make paintings. In the 1860s, as the medium became easier to use and less expensive, it became an amateur hobby. Many artists owned cameras and they used photos as an alternative to sketching. Photography also changed their understanding of light, possibly because early prints resulted in high contrast blocks of light and dark, not detailed half-tones. Also, by emulating the angular tilt of popular photos, and the novel way they cropped off heads and limbs, the Impressionists gained yet another way to rebel against the Academy. We might even say that photography caused the Impressionist revolution in art.

BINDERS: Most artists would associate the Impressionist painting style with plein-air work done on- site, but you maintain that work of equal quality can be created using photographs as reference material.

J.Z.Torre: Yes, painting outdoors certainly was a cornerstone of the Impressionist movement. However, when painting en plein-air, shifting shadows and the changing color of light can be major obstacles. With a few reference photos, a quick sketch and color notes however, they could complete the works later in their studios. And let’s not forget that the Impressionist didn’t only paint on-site landscapes. ConsiderMary Cassette’s interiors with babies, Cezanne’s fruit bowls and interiors, and Degas’s ballet dancers. In my workshop I will show and tell and demonstrate everything I’ve learned about how the Impressionists made paintings -- their color palettes, their brush and knife techniques, their use of photography and their vision of the world -- which continue to be the most popular paintings in the history of art.

BINDERS: Tell us how you got interested in art. When did you make the decision to pursue painting as a career?

J.Z.Torre: How I got started in art is a pretty common story, not at all unusual. Briefly, as a boy in Brooklyn I liked to draw, and I would copy the cartoonists that drew Mad and EC comics. In high school I took a few art courses, and my teachers got me to visit the major art museums, such as MoMA, the Metropolitan and Guggenheim. But I was interested in lots of other things too, like rock and roll instead of Rembrandt. So I joined the Navy right after high school.

BINDERS: How did you break into the advertising business?

J.Z.Torre: I graduated from Florida State University with a BS degree in advertising. As a result I morphed from copying Mad comics into a Mad Men-era copywriter with a visual sensibility, and later I was creative director at a few top ad agencies in the southeast. Finally, about ten years ago, I decided the time to get back to art. So I bought some art supplies and learned how to paint in oils and acrylics. I’ve been learning ever since.

BINDERS: In advertising you won awards for your creative work. Does the aesthetic of the bold, message-driven image that is so prevalent in advertising enter into your compositions in any way?

J.Z.Torre: Advertising is everywhere, so I think it shapes everybody’s perception of the world, not only mine. Other visual influences are movies, graphic design and computerized animation, to name just a few. It’s inescapable! On an average day the average person is bombarded by over a thousand advertising messages -- commercials, ads in magazines and newspapers, signage, logos, pop-ups, the list goes on. Advertising is part of our world, so naturally it shows up in our art. But the reverse is also true: advertising repackages everything that comes from the art world.

BINDERS: What does it mean to be a “contemporary” realist? And tell us why your art has been described having a “sense of humor."

J.Z.Torre: Well, basically, as a modern day artist who paints pictures that refer to the real world, I guess that makes me a “contemporary realist.” And about any “sense of humor,” I do hope that viewers find my work fun to look at. I don’t try for laugh-out-loud-funny, of course -- just enjoyable, interesting and occasionally beautiful. Whenever possible I try to tell an amusing little story too. For example, the shoelace untied in my “Executive Decision,” and the 26-cent tip on the lunch counter in “Neighborhood Eatery,” and the topsy-turvy skew of “Head Over Heels.” Hopefully they evoke some tiny smile in a viewer’s mind.

BINDERS: Aside from the contemporary subjects that you paint, you also draw upon some very traditional motifs: the Tuscany landscapes and the flowers come to mind. Are there sources from the past that you draw on for inspiration?

J.Z.Torre: I feel both humbled and inspired when I think about the many wonderful paintings that artists have created over the past six centuries since the Renaissance. There is just so much for me to learn from their compositions, methods and formulas. As a result, I give myself the freedom to work in any style and medium I choose. For years I’ve been fascinated by Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artists. The beauty and power of their imagery, and their inventive techniques of paint handling, are well worth emulating even today. Those Impressionists were truly the “contemporary realists” of their own time, I feel. Perhaps I should identify myself as a “contemporary realist with an Impressionist accent.”

BINDERS: As a working portrait painter, how do you approach the idea of depicting a person's face? Do you rely solely on the physical attributes or do you look for ways to inject personality into the work? What advice would you have for people who are just getting started as portrait painters?

J.Z.Torre: A successful fine art portrait painting should depict a person’s “true-likeness” -- face, flesh-tones and personality -- in a such a way that is flattering, but not too flattering! For people interested in learning traditional portraiture, my first suggestions is join an educational group like the Portrait Society of Atlanta, where they will find lots of information, demonstrations and supportive artist friends. My second suggestion, study the remarkable virtuosity of John Singer Sargent -- his work goes back a hundred years yet it remains the gold standard against which all other fine art portraits are measured even today. Third, attend a workshop for portrait painting, then another workshop, and another. Learning about art is an art in itself.

To see examples of his paintings visit J.Z.Torre’s website.

Visit BINDERS website!

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

The Subject of Art #3: To Frame Or Not To Frame? The Aesthetics Of Hanging Paintings

A frame creates a visual separation between the space depicted in the painting and the space of the room in which the painting is hung, allowing the viewer to see a three dimensional scene on a two dimensional surface. Frames are both asthetic and functional, as an added support for the wood stretchers that the canvas is mounted on, protection for the painting and to keep the canvas from warping. The choice of frame — style and color, or even having a frame at all — has a significant effect on the viewing experience of the painting.

The beginnings of the unframed aesthetic for canvas paintings take place during the late 19th century. At that time, some artists — like French Symbolist painter Franz Von Stuck and the many visionaries who were part of the Art Nouveau movement — began to see the frame not as a separate, complementary element to the canvas, but as a direct extension of the painting, as a way of bringing the painting out from it's illusory space into the real world. They weren't ready to abandon the frames yet, but they were designing them with carved and/or constructed imagery to so closely match the image that the two began to fuse into one. In the early 20th century, painters like Wassily Kandinsky and Marc Chagall went a step further, taking plain wood frames and painting directly on them, allowing the frame to literally become part of the artwork.

These innovations in the presentation of canvas paintings were beginning to deconstruct the idea of the painting as separated from the real world of the viewer by the confines of the frame. However the complete removal of that frame would not take hold until after World War II, starting with the Abstract Expressionists in America.

From the 1950's onwards, many abstract painters began to view the painting itself as an object to be contemplated within the real world and the tradition of framing the painting became an impediment to that vision. The Abstract Expressionists worked at a very large scale, with paintings that were so big that a viewer standing close enough would have their visual field completely filled, in effect bringing the viewer into painting rather than looking out at it through a window. Because the frame tends to denote where the painting ends, it would be contrary to the aims of Abstract Expressionism to allow the painting to be limited by the hard line of the frame. However at the time, collectors and patrons were still under the influence of the tradition and so even these giant canvases may have been framed to satisfy their owner's sense of propriety.

With the advent of Post-Modernism's iconoclastic ideologies in the 1960's, the frame came to be seen as another symbol of oppression and so tended to be dismissed altogether. Painters of this era, like Frank Stella, saw their work from a sculptural point of view, almost as if the painting were a sculpture that happened to be rectangular, made of canvas and painted. Stella quickly even abandoned the rectangular part, experimenting with canvases built in different shapes and configurations that would have confounded any framer's attempt to contain it.

One of the key innovations of this time was the understanding that the canvas material actually extends around the sides of the frame it is stretched over and that there was no reason that the painting should not continue around the sides as well, which had the effect of literally turning the painting into a three dimensional object and rejecting the frame because it would actually hide part of the artwork.

In response to this aesthetic, artists began working on canvases with greater depth, allowing more space on the sides to be painted, and deep canvases (3-4" thick) can be commonly found these days. For others, the painting proper was executed on the front surface of the canvas, but the sides were left uncovered, allowing all the drips and splatters that normally occur during the painting process to be visible and serve as a record of the artist's activities.

Through it all, figurative painters quietly continued the traditions that suited their expression best, including the frame, and as the Post-Modern uproar died down through the end of the 20th Century, the art establishment has begun to take interest in the aesthetics and values that had sustained the culture for so many centuries. As a result, one can find both ideas, the framed and the unframed, in full bloom within the art scene of any community and we are all the more rich for it.

If you are an artist contemplating whether or not your canvas paintings should be framed, consider the following questions:

Do you want your painting to be the window into another space?
A frame will complement the work nicely and you would do best with a studio style, 3/4" depth canvas which will fit the most different kinds of frames.

Do you want your painting to be viewed as an object existing within the room? Consider not framing it and using a canvas with a depth of at least 1.5" which will create more of a presence and give the work more of a three dimensional solidity.

BINDERS offers a large selection of frames in many styles and colors, as well as on-site professional custom framing. Always remember that the possibilities are endless, perhaps you will think of a way to present your art that has never been tried before!

Sunday, March 21, 2010

This Week @ BINDERS - March 22-28

ART CLASSES & WORKSHOPS | ART HAPPENINGS

Are you ready for Spring? Here at BINDERS we have some great spring art classes and workshops for you to look forward to as well! In April we'll be welcoming J.Z. Torre, Susan Bradford, Lisa Duncan and Hellene Vermillion for Impressionist Paintings from Photos, Fearless Watercolor Landscapes, Drawing Concepts and Silk Dye Painting Basics respectively! We recommend signing up for these classes early since space is limited and we make it easy for you: register for a class at the store, over the phone, or on our website.

ART CLASSES & WORKSHOPS

Monday, March 22:
Guided Open Studio with Kay Powell
10:30am-2pm • Every Monday | Beginner to Intermediate | Fee: $17/per session. Please pay the instructor. No registration necessary


Guided Open Studio with Kay Powell
6:30-8:30pm • see details above.


Tuesday, March 23:
Painting - Design and Technique with Charles Y. Walls
1-4pm • 6 sessions, Feb. 23-March 30 • Open to all levels.

Painting - Design and Technique with Charles Y. Walls
6-8:30pm • see details above

Bookmaking with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Tuesdays, 6 sessions, Feb. 23-March 30 • Fee: $140

Wednesday, March 24:
Copperplate Calligraphy with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Wednesdays, 6 sessions, Feb. 24-March 31 • Fee: $140

Thursday, March 25:
Italic Calligraphy with Anne Elser
6-8:30pm, Thursdays, 6 sessions, Feb. 25-April 1 • Fee: $140


Friday, March 26:
No special art events today.

Saturday, March 27:
No special art events today.

Sunday, March 28:
No special art events today.

Please note: Classes on this schedule are in our Atlanta store unless otherwise indicated. For more information please email or call Eli Pelizza at 404.237.6331 ext. 203.


Check out the full list of our upcoming art classes and art workshops! Sign up for 5 classes, workshops or demos and receive 25% OFF of your next sign up.


ART HAPPENINGS | THE LIMELIGHT GALLERY

Blackberry Creek Artists:
A Few of our Favorite Things

Showing March 2-26

Visit BINDERS website!