Showing posts with label product review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label product review. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Anatomy of a Paintbrush - Part 2, Sizes, Materials & Mediums

SIZES
Artists’ paintbrushes are usually given numbered sizes that correspond to the width of the bristles just above the ferrule, although there is no exact standard for their physical dimensions.

The most common sizes for soft round brushes are #4/0 to 24 (1/64” to 11/16“ wide).

For bristle brushes, common sizes range from #0 to 24 (1/32” to 31/32” wide).

From smallest to largest, the sizes are:
  • 10/0 (say “ten-zero“), 7/0, 6/0, 5/0, 4/0, 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30.
  • Brushes as tiny as 30/0 are manufactured by major companies, but are uncommon.
If you need brushes larger than one-inch wide, you may have to resort to the kind used by furniture refinishers and house painters. Abstract expressionist Franz Kline swung a five-inch-wide brush from the hardware store.

Now that you are familiar with paintbrush sizes (above), as well as their various shapes (see Part 1), you should also be mindful of what materials the brushes are made of, and of course the painting medium you’ll be using.

MATERIALS
Should you choose hair or bristle brushes? Should they be natural or synthetic? Here is a summary of the most common materials used to make fine art paintbrushes:
  • High quality, soft hair paintbrushes are made from costly Kolinsky sable and Red sable. More moderately priced are ox hair (sabeline) brushes. Less expensive still are squirrel, pony, horse, goat, mongoose, sheep, rabbit and badger. “Camel hair” brushes are least expensive, although it does not come from camels.
  • Synthetic brushes have almost the same qualities as natural hair and bristle brushes but at a more affordable price.
  • Synthetic “hairs” and “bristles” are made of special multi-diameter extruded Nylon-type filament intended to mimic the taper of natural fibers. Whether they are white, orange, brown or another color, synthetic brushes are pretty much the same.
  • Bristle paintbrushes may be either natural or synthetic, depending on the degree of stiffness/softness you require.
  • Hog bristles (often called China bristle or Chunking bristle) are stiffer and stronger than soft hair. It may be bleached or unbleached.
  • Stiff brushes are generally stronger, and thus last longer, than soft brushes.
  • Cheap brushes have short life spans. Their hairs and bristles soon go limp or fall apart, leaving behind broken specks on your paintings.
MEDIUM
Artists’ paintbrushes are usually made for specific painting mediums, such as watercolors, oils and acrylics. Although there are not rules, here are some guidelines:
  • Watercolor brushes are usually made of natural sable, synthetic sable or Nylon. (Watercolorists favor natural hairs, due to their superior ability to absorb and hold water.)
  • Oil brushes can be either natural hair or bristle, as well as synthetics.
  • Acrylic brushes, which are almost always synthetic fibers. (Since acrylic is a water-based medium, synthetics are ideal because they aren’t susceptible to water damage.)
ABOUT HANDLES & FERRULES
The handles of artists' brushes are usually made of wood but can also be made of less expensive molded plastic. While many mass-produced handles are made of unfinished raw wood, better quality handles are of seasoned hardwood. The wood is sealed and lacquered to give the handle a high-gloss, waterproof finish that reduces soiling and swelling. They last longer too.

Ferrules keep it all together, firmly clinching the bristles/hairs, adhesives and handle into a reinforced, precision instrument. Metal ferrules may be of aluminum, nickel, copper or nickel-plated steel. Quill ferrules (natural or transparent plastic tightened in place by thin wire) give a different "feel" to the brush.

You’ll feel good exploring BINDERS Paint Brushes Department. It is literally bristling with full range of artists’ brushes in all shapes, sizes and prices ranges. From the world’s finest sources, choose from Princeton Brush, Winsor & Newton, Yasutomo, Silver Brush, Art Alternatives, Loew-Cornell, Grumbacher, Isabey, Escoda and many more.

You could say, we’ve got different strokes for different folks.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Anatomy of a Paintbrush - Part 1, Shapes

Paintbrushes are used for applying paint or ink. With a little help from Wikipedia, we’d like to briefly paint in some of the details.

Brushes are usually made by clamping the bristles (hairs) to a handle with a ferrule, a metal collar or ring. Short-handled brushes are mainly for watercolor, ink painting and calligraphy, while the long-handled brushes are intended for oil or acrylic paint.

The styles of brush tip seen most commonly are:
  • Round: Long closely arranged bristles for detail.
  • Flat: For spreading paint quickly and evenly over a surface. They will have longer hairs than their Bright counterpart.
  • Bright: Flat brushes with short stiff bristles, good for driving paint into the weave of a canvas in thinner paint applications, as well as thicker painting styles like impasto work.
  • Filbert: These are flat brushes with domed ends. They allow good coverage and the ability to perform some detail work.
  • Fan: For blending broad adjacent areas of paint.
  • Angle: Like the Filbert, these are versatile and can be applied in both general-painting. applications as well as some detail work.
  • Mop: A larger format brush with a rounded edge for broad soft paint application as well as for getting thinner glazes over existing drying layers of paint without damaging lower layers.
  • Rigger: Round brushes with longish hairs, traditionally used for painting the rigging in pictures of sailboats and ships. They are useful for fine lines and are versatile for both oils, acrylics and watercolors.
Some other styles of brush include:
  • Sumi-e: Known by its Japanese name, it is an East Asian type Ink and wash painting brush, similar to certain watercolor brushes. They generally have a thick wooden or bamboo handle and a broad soft hair brush that when wetted should form a fine tip.
  • Hake: An Asian style of brush with a large broad wooden handle and an extremely fine soft hair used in counterpoint to traditional Sumi-e brushes for covering large areas. Often made of goat hair.
  • Spotter: Round brushes with just a few short bristles. These brushes are commonly used for small detail work, such as covering spots on photographic prints.
Speaking of coverage, BINDERS Paint Brushes Department is like a store within a story -- literally bristling with full range of artists’ brushes in all shapes, sizes and prices ranges. From the world’s finest sources, choose from Princeton Brush, Winsor & Newton, Yasutomo, Silver Brush, Art Alternatives, Loew-Cornell, Grumbacher, Isabey, Escoda and many more.

And while you here, don’t forget brush cleaner.

Coming next: Part 2, Brush Sizes

Visit the BINDERS website at www.bindersart.com!

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Jacquard iDye Poly Review by Eli Pelizza


Dying polyester and nylon is not usually accessible to the average home dyer, until now! Jacquard has come out with a great line of very user friendly dyes for synthetic fabrics, iDye Poly.

iDye Poly makes dying nylon and polyester easy. The color selection is great and it is affordable. The soluble dye packet dissolves in water and virtually eliminates the messy powder yuk common with other home dye options.

There are two methods of using the dye, stove top and washing machine. I used it in my front load washing machine and achieved the result that I was looking for. This dye is great to use for Shibori* or just changing the color of your favorite skirt or shirt.


Tips:
  1. Make sure that the packet is fully dissolved!!! This can cause blotching if it is not fully incorporated.
  2. Pre-wetting your fabric will help prepare the fibers to better accept the dye as well as help it dye a little more evenly.
  3. Make sure to agitate the item you are dyeing consistently to ensure more even coloring.
  4. This product works very well with the Shibori* processes.
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shibori

Visit our website at www.bindersart.com!

Monday, February 23, 2009

Montana Gold Spray Paint Review by Em Kempf



When I hear the clink of metal to metal while working, I usually drop what I'm doing and make haste to the Montana Gold display rack located near the front of the store. If the metal to metal noise I heard was indeed made by a customer, hovering over the Montana Gold spray paint display, my face lights up and I immediately ask the same question every time "Whatchya doin with that?!"

Some customers are students preparing for a project deadline and they commence to tell me all about their grand schemes and ideas (which I love). Some are home room mom's getting geared up for a massive 3rd grader's art auction. And some customers get nervous and pause a little too long before spitting out some watered down reason for their reason of choice in spray paint. Some of these customers are newbies in the land of art and look at me wide eyed and desperate for a solution to their woes and ask "Will this work on plastic?" "Yes! Yes it will!" I reply with great pride and excitement. "..and metal!" Then I go on to explain that I have painted my entire van with Montana Gold and it has not only stuck tried and true to the sides of my car for over a year now, it has also withheld the pressures of snow, rain, wind, Atlanta pollution and beating sunshine.

Montana Gold just rocks. I've use Montana Gold in set design to get mass ideas & patterns out quick and efficiently with minimum mess. I've used it on postcards, cardboard scrap art, a skateboard, and even a welding helmet!

Alright, let's break it down,

7 REASONS WHY MONTANA GOLD ROCKS MY SOCKS:
  1. It doesn't drip easily (but if you want drips, they can be achieved...butit's really, really hard).
  2. It's true to the color on the cap and to the sheen (a soft satin usually,unless you have a metallic or a fluorescent).
  3. There are like 72 colors (92?) Whatever, a LOT of color choices.
  4. The paint itself is thick, opaque and gives great coverage.
  5. The cans can last a good while depending on the usage.
  6. There are like 6 cap sizes (which depicts what size line the can nozzlewill spray)
  7. It's super classy.
7 TIPS ON USING MONTANA GOLD, SO IT CAN ROCK YOUR SOCKS TOO:
  1. Take the white cap off and turn can upside down to let black rubber doughnut fall out (This doughnut is simply to keep the can from spraying while not in use).
  2. Shake the can for like 2 minutes (for reals). Even 3!
  3. Spray a little out on test cardboard or paper before attacking your project (sometimes a foamy or powdery substance comes out..just spray 'till it stops, then shake a little more, and your ready!!).
  4. Continue to shake every so often during project just to keep thing fresh.
  5. Wear a freaking mask. And not a hip looking scarf or one of those white dust masks. This isn't a gangster fashion show or just simple particles of dust we are dealing with here people. I don't know about you, but i don't need to be losing no more brain cells thankyouverymuch. So pass them masks!
  6. If you haven't already figured out from above statement, Montana Gold istoxic (as is all spray paint) and ain't for kids. So keep the little ones indoors during spray time. Assuming your spraying outdoors that is, which brings me to tip #7....
  7. Outdoors is best environment when dealing with Montana Gold.
OK guys! go out and spray the world into a better place!!! Spread the LOVE
-emily (em!) kempf

Visit our website at www.bindersart.com!